The New Spanish Table by Anya Von Bremzen

Author:Anya Von Bremzen
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Workman Publishing Company
Published: 2014-03-08T16:00:00+00:00

BEEF AND VEAL

COCIDO: SPAIN’S FAMOUS BOILED DINNER

COCIDO

Cocido is a big multi-ingredient feast that will feed an army—soup, meat, vegetables—and still leave leftovers. The ingredients list and instructions might look involved, but there’s not much more to it than throwing a bunch of stuff in a pot.

Spanish cooks tend to be militantly chauvinistic about their cocidos, insisting that their region, province, city, neighborhood, or household makes the best. Not being bound by regional rules, I have the freedom to combine the best features of cocidos from all around Spain. In the Catalan manner, a hefty veal knuckle flavors the broth, giving it depth. From the Alicante region, I’ve borrowed deliciously delicate meatballs studded with pine nuts and subtly scented with lemon peel. The thin noodles belong to Castile, while green beans (instead of the usual cabbage) are an Andalusian touch. Call it a composite cocido.

This recipe makes a rather large amount, so you can enjoy the yummy dishes made with cocido leftovers (see page 254 for some dishes to make with them).

FOR THE MEATS, CHICKPEAS & BROTH:

2 small bay leaves

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

6 medium-size garlic cloves, lightly smashed

2 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs

1½ cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained (not quick soaked)

2 pounds veal shanks or knuckles, rinsed well

1 pound beef marrow bones or knucklebones, rinsed well

1 piece (6 ounces) serrano ham or prosciutto

1 piece (½ pound) smoky, meaty slab bacon

2 pounds boneless beef shin, shank, chuck (preferably arm or shoulder), or brisket

1 chicken (about 3½ pounds), rinsed well a nd trimmed of excess fat

1 large carrot, scraped

1 large onion stuck with a few cloves

12 ounces sweet Spanish-style chorizo sausage

6 ounces morcilla or other blood sausage (see Notes)

FOR THE MEATBALLS (OPTIONAL):

1 slice white sandwich bread, crust removed

¼ pound ground pork

¼ pound chicken or turkey sausages, casings removed

1 large egg, beaten

¼ cup pine nuts

½ teaspoon grated lemon zest

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

A few gratings of nutmeg

1 medium-size pinch of ground cinnamon

1½ tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

FOR THE VEGETABLES AND SOUP:

About 2 pounds small new potatoes, scrubbed

Coarse salt (kosher or sea)

1¼ pounds green beans, trimmed

1 cup fideo noodles or thin vermicelli, broken into 1-inch lengths

FOR SERVING:

Minted Tomato Vinaigrette (recipe follows)

A green salad dressed with lemon juice and extra-virgin olive oil

1. Prepare the meat, chickpeas, and broth: Place the bay leaves, peppercorns, garlic, and parsley sprigs in a small piece of cheesecloth and tie it closed. Wrap and tie the chickpeas in a large square piece of cheesecloth, so you can easily remove them later.

2. Place the veal shanks, beef bones, serrano ham, bacon, beef shin, and chicken in a very large, heavy stockpot. Add 4½ quarts (18 cups) water and bring to a boil over high heat. Thoroughly skim off the foam. Add the cheesecloth bags of herbs and chickpeas and the carrot and onion and bring back to a boil, skimming. Cover the pot, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour (the liquid should barely bubble). Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to a large bowl and cover it with aluminum foil.

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